Tuesday, 09 October 2007

Newsletter 5: 'Summer Is Gone'

PART 1: The Southern Alps
In my previous newsletter we were on our way to go and look for the Summer. Now, like Beth Hart sings in her song: 'Summer is gone.' Yes, Summer arrived, stayed for a while and now she's in the process of leaving.

Did we really find Summer this year in France? Yes, sometimes we did. What does that mean, wasn't it Summer the whole time? Of course it was, but as a South African, the French Summer confused me. I learnt that, in Europe, one's destination determines the character and the intensity of Summer.

Our first destination was the Southern Alps. We camped in a small village called La Chapelle. On the day we arrived it was very cloudy. While we pitched the tent, light rain started falling. During the first night I thought we probably took the wrong turn somewhere and must have driven to the winter in the southern hemisphere. It was around 5 degrees celsius that night. When I saw the snow on the peaks of the mountains the next morning I understood why it was so cold during the night.

In the Alps we spent our time hiking, playing in the park, making food, exploring the area around the village and trying not to get too cold from the moment the sun disappeared behind the mountains at night.

We welcomed every new day, especially when it was sunny. Every morning we bought fresh bread at the shop across the road from the campsite. The highlight of the breakfasts was an avocado (yes, only one), from close to Tzaneen in South Africa, mashed and smeared on a fresh baguette. Here avocados are really expensive and we only buy it on special occasions. Luca and Lauren were very excited to eat an avocado again.

It started raining shortly after we went to bed the sunday night before we left. It didn't stop until the next morning. During the time we packed our tent and other camping gear away, the drops continued falling. We didn't mind going back home.

I'm including a few pictures here to give you an idea of what that part of the Alps look like.

Tuesday, 26 June 2007

Newsletter 4: "Looking For The Summer"

I’m borrowing the title for this newsletter from an old Chris Rea song from his 'Auberge' album. I love that song’s name. Read it carefully. It’s not just “Looking for Summer”. The small word ‘the’ gives the phrase a completely different meaning. The singer isn’t looking for Summer in general. He makes it much more specific and gives Summer an identity and a unique personality. Summer is no longer just something, it is transformed into someone - a being truly alive.

It makes one wonder where you would start searching if you were given the task of finding Summer. Or, would you wait for Summer to find you? Like all the other seasons, Summer also has an essence, something spiritual, that gives it life as a unique season.

Last year, we arrived in France during Summer. A particularly hot Summer, especially since we flew straight from the cold of Winter into the hothouse called southern Europe. We stayed at the coast for a while, where we swam often and sweated even more. Afterwards we started the big search for a vehicle and a house. Thus, before we had the chance to notice it, Summer had faded into the colours of Autumn. Somehow, caught up in all our preoccupations with the practical side of life, we had ignored Summer.

Now, Summer has returned, giving us another chance of finding her. She arrived recently, dressed in long days of light, perfumed by the scent of Lavender and other flowers, singing with the voices of cicadas and birds. Like the swallows who have returned safely from far South, Summer flies happily around us, rejoicing in the warmth and freedom. She’s filled with the laughter of children swimming, the welcome presence of ice-cream and cold drinks and the appetizing smell of people having a braai (that’s the Afrikaans word for barbecue for those of you unfamiliar with it). This year, we are determined to find Summer, won’t allow our ignorance to miss her beauty.

Everybody looks for Summer in a different way. In France, many people believe she can only be found at the coast, by playing on the beach, building sand castles, soaking the tiredness of the year away in the lukewarm water of the Mediterranean sea, and, with the help of the ever present sun, exchanging one’s bleached Winter skin for a tan. However, if your aim is to escape from the hordes of holidaymakers, there are many other options.

Our quest to find Summer will again start in La Ciotat, for a visit with my parents-in-law, as well as the sun, sea and sand. We know our time there will be filled with long meals in the shade and hours spent at the beach, permeated by the intoxicating smell of suntan lotion. We’ve learnt to go to the beach early enough in order to find parking and some space on the sand. Late afternoon is also a good time, around half past five, when people start returning home to prepare dinner. Usually, inspired by the children, we go twice a day.

Following our short seaside holiday, we’re going to the Alps to explore the high country from a campsite surrounded by mountains. After camping there we’ll travel to the Pyrenees, where we’ll also camp. So, apart from the few days at the sea, we have chosen mountains as the theme for our holiday. After returning home, I’ll write another newsletter with photo’s and stories of our trip.

In the meantime, I would love to show you a few places worth visiting if you ever have the opportunity to come to this part of France. There are many towns, villages, cathedrals, beaches, museums and so on to visit. It all depends on what you are interested in and, of course, how much time you have available. I’m not going into too many details about the towns and other interesting sites, but will allow the photos to give you an impression of the various places.

Firstly, Aix-en-Provence is definitely worth a visit. It’s usually quite busy, but those not scared of getting up a little bit earlier than the rest of France, will, once again, find parking easily. The French, and other holidaymakers, sleep quite late during the holiday. If you plan to see Aix, you’ll need time. One of the best days to visit is Saturday, when markets add extra colour to the streets. Here follows a list of other places of interest, each including at least one photo:
-Ansouis:
-Cucuron: -Sausset les Pins: -Martigues: -Roussillon:
-Salon-de-Provence: -Les Baux-de-Provence: -Avignon:
-Eygalieres:-L’isle sur la Sorgue:


-Lourmarin:

-Cassis, especially the Calanques:
-La Ciotat:

-Vernegues:
-Saintes Maries de la Mer:
-Roman Aqueduct close to Fontvieille:
-Fontaine de Vaucluse:
-Camargue:
-Drive from La Ciotat to St. Tropez:
-St. Tropez: -Aigues Mortes:
-Lacoste:
-Bonnieux:

The places I’ve shown you here are just some of many. There are literally hundreds of other villages to visit, but, I believe, these photos at least gave you an impression of what Provence looks like.

I anyway don’t want to show you everything. You must still have something to look at when you come and visit this area.

Good luck to those of you in the cold Southern hemisphere, but just remember, we all get a turn to go looking for the Summer.

All the best to everybody.
André.